Graded Spec Sheets and Pattern Blocks
The graded spec sheet is the document that tells the pattern maker how to scale your base size into a full run. A base size of 2X with a bust of 102 cm must grade to a size 1X with a bust of 95 cm. If the grade rules are missing, the pattern maker will apply a standard grade, which for a fitted jacket might be 4 cm per size, but for a relaxed-fit cardigan might be 5 cm. The result is a sample that fits wrong, a revision cycle, and a two-week delay. For evening dresses and activewear, where fit is critical, the grade rules must be explicit. Include the point of measure, the base size, and the increment for each size up and down. A pack with a graded spec for a size 8 seam allowance of 1.5 cm, graded to 1.7 cm for a size 14, tells the factory you have considered the production reality.
The construction sheet is where most packs fail. A sketch of a jacket with a "bound seam" tells the factory nothing about the stitch. Specify SPI (stitches per inch) for every seam. For a woven dress, 12 to 14 SPI is standard. For a knit activewear top, 10 to 12 SPI is common. If the SPI is not specified, the factory will use their default, which for a woven might be 10 SPI, resulting in a seam that is too loose for a structured bodice. Include the seam type, for example a flat-felled seam on a shirt side seam, and the thread type, such as polyester core-spun. A pack that specifies a 1/4-inch single-needle topstitch on a collar with 14 SPI and a tension setting of 4.5 on a Juki DDL-8700 machine is a pack that gets a quote in 48 hours. A pack that says "topstitch collar" gets a question.
The AQL (Acceptable Quality Limit) level is the quality threshold for the final inspection. Most factories default to AQL 2.5 for major defects. If you require AQL 1.5, which is a stricter standard, the factory must adjust their production line to reduce defects, which increases cost. Specify the AQL in the tech pack, and define what constitutes a major and minor defect. For a lace evening dress, a run in the lace is a major defect. For a cotton t-shirt, a loose thread is a minor defect. Without this definition, the factory will apply their own standards, which may not match yours. A pack that lists AQL 1.5 for major defects and AQL 4.0 for minor defects, with a defined list of what each category includes, is a pack that controls the final quality.
Labeling is a compliance issue, not a design choice. The tech pack must specify the main label, size label, care label, and country of origin label, with their exact placement and dimensions. For a garment sold in the US, the care label must comply with FTC regulations, including the fiber content, country of origin, and care instructions. For a garment sold in the EU, the REACH compliance for chemicals must be noted. A pack that lists a main label of 2.5 cm x 5 cm, sewn 2 cm below the back neck seam, with a care label of 4 cm x 6 cm, sewn into the left side seam at the waist, is a pack that passes customs. A pack that says "add labels" is a pack that gets held at the border.
The Cost of an Incomplete Pack
An incomplete tech pack is not just a delay; it is a direct cost. A factory that receives a pack without a graded spec will add a 10 percent risk buffer to the quote. A pack without a defined AQL will result in a final inspection that rejects 15 percent of the run, which you pay for. A pack without a BOM tolerance will result in a fabric that is 5 percent lighter than specified, which changes the drape and the cost. The tech pack is the contract between you and the factory. The more measurable conditions you specify, the lower the risk, the lower the cost, and the faster the lead time. In China-based womenswear production, the factory does not guess; they work to the spec. If the spec is missing, they assume the worst, and you pay for that assumption.
- Write the BOM with exact values and tolerances for every component, including fabric weight, zipper length, and thread type. 2. Include a graded spec sheet with point of measure, base size, and grade rules for every size in the run. 3. Specify the stitch type, SPI, and thread type for every seam in the construction sheet. 4. Define the AQL level for major and minor defects, with a list of what each category includes. 5. List every label with its dimensions, placement, and compliance requirements. 6. Review the pack for any term that is not a number or a specific reference, and replace it with a measurable condition. The goal is a pack that answers every question before it is asked. That is the pack that gets a quote, a sample, and a production run on your timeline. The factory’s capacity is not the bottleneck. The pack is. Make it complete, and the rest follows.
A complete tech pack does not mean the factory will accept it without question. In fact, a factory that asks for changes is a factory that is reading the pack. The key is to distinguish between a change that improves production and a change that lowers cost at the expense of quality. For example, if the factory suggests changing a flat-felled seam to a lap seam on a shirt side seam, ask for the cost difference and the durability comparison. If the factory suggests a lower SPI for a woven dress, ask for the seam strength test results. A factory that suggests changes without data is a factory to avoid. A factory that suggests changes with data is a partner. The tech pack is the starting point, not the end. Be prepared to negotiate, but only with measurable conditions. If the factory says "this seam is too expensive," ask for the cost per garment and the alternative. If the factory says "this fabric is not available," ask for the equivalent weight and composition. The pack is your leverage. Use it to keep the production on your terms.
The Final Check Before You Send the Pack
Before you send the tech pack, do a final check. Open the pack and read it as if you are the factory’s production manager. Ask: Can I cut the fabric from this spec? Can I sew the garment from this construction sheet? Can I inspect the final product from this AQL? If the answer to any of these is no, the pack is not complete. Fix it. The goal is a pack that a factory can work from without a single question. That is the pack that gets a quote in 48 hours, a sample in 21 days, and a production run on your schedule. The tech pack is not a document; it is the production plan. Make it measurable, make it complete, and the factory will make your garment. The rest is logistics.
This is the process. This is how you get from a sketch to a shipment. The tech pack is the bridge. Build it strong.
What to send us
If the specifications above match what you are sourcing, send your tech pack to Orange Sea Clothing. If the pack is not written yet, sketches and a reference sample are enough to start — sample development covers the design review, fabric and trim sourcing, pattern making and the first prototype, so you see fit and construction before you commit to a production run.
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